Bhaje Caves, Lohgad and Visapur Fort - 17 Nov 2007

Bhaje Caves

Bhaja Caves, near the Karla Caves, are a group of 18 rock-cut caves dating back to 200 BC. located near Lonavala, a hill station, and Karli in the western state of Maharashtra between the cities of Mumbai and Pune in India. It is on a major trade route that runs from the Arabian Sea eastward, into the Deccan in a region that is the division between North India and South India..[1] Viharas make up ten caves, and one is a chaitya, stylistically similar to the Karla Caves. There is also group of 14 stupas, five inside and nine outside the caves. One of the caves has some fine sculptures. Near the last cave is a waterfall which, during the monsoon season, has water that falls into a small pool at the bottom

Lohagad - The Iron Fort

Lohagad ("the Iron fort") is one of the many hill forts of Chatrapati Shivaji. It is situated 52 km from Pune in western India. Lohagad is at an elevation of 3,450 feet (1,052 m).

It divides the basins of the Indrayani and Pavna rivers and is situated on a side range of the Sahyadris. Another fort called Visapur is located close to Lohagad, on its eastern side. The four large gates of Lohagad are still in good condition and reasonably intact. Historical records show that in the later Peshwa period, Nana Phadnavis (1742-1800 AD) built several structures in the fort such as a big tank and a step-well (bawali).

On the west side, there is a long and narrow wall-like fortified spur called Vinchukata in Marathi (scorpion sting) because of its natural shape.

Visapur Fort (from http://trekshitiz.com/)

The forts of Lohgad and Visapur have played an important role in guarding the ancient trade routes and being the savior of Bhaje and Bedse caves. Among them, Lohgad is related to many significant historical events. Much of it is known. Unlike that, much less is known about Visapur. In spite of being a very big fort, protected by a highly impregnable fortification and presence of a large plateau, less is written about it, or much less records could have added to information about it.

Lohgad and Visapur lay in Nane Maval. This region came under Nizamshahi after dissolution of Bahmani rule. It went into the hands of Mughals in the treaty of Mahuli, between Shahajiraje and Mughals. Seeing that the Mughals were not able to keep a control over the region, Shivaji Maharaj captured almost all the forts here till 1660. However, he lost the fort again to Mughals in the treaty of Purandar in 1665. However Aurangzeb broke the treaty. In 1682, Shahbuddin, a Mughal Sardar invaded the region, and killed 60 Marathas in an anguish. However Marathas escaped to Visapur. They were chased, but moved in time to the village of Kusapur. On 4th march 1818 Colonel Prother captured Visapur, and the next day Lohgad fell into his hands.The mountain of Visapur is significant, as Bhaje caves have been carved out in the same mountain. The destruction caused by Mughals and English is clearly evident from the injuries on the Bhaje caves. These beautiful caves could have been bombarded by cannon balls, because much of their part has been broken.

The above information is taken from http://trekshitiz.com/ visit this site for more details, maps and photos of forts in Maharastra. They also conduct treks and the website provides good information and history of many forts in Maharastra.

Further information
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhaja_Caves
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lohgad
http://trekshitiz.com/ (search for information on Lohgad and Visapur on this page)

One can start early and can finish the trek to Lohgad and Visapur in a day. Many visit the Lohgad fort, but very few visit the nearby Visapur fort which is very big and has a wide plateu compared to Lohgad.

I started from Pune by Pune-Lonavala local train and reached Malvali station around 7AM. From this station one can take the bridge crossing over the pune-Mumbai expressway and walk towards Bhaje village. Bhaje caves are very close to the village and in in the same range of hills on which Visapur fort is built. There is a ASI post near the caves and a entry fees also (very nominal) to see the caves. I was too early there, hence could not get a very closer look at the caves, as the caretaker was not yet there. May be they open gates around 9AM.

From Bhaje village there is a jeep track which goes till Lohagaon, the village at the base of Lohgad fort. As you approach near the Lohgad fort, there is a small deviation of tracks to Lohgad and Visapur, this place is called Gomukh Khind. Visapur is to your left and you see Lohgad in front of you from this place. All four entrences to Lohgad are in good condition and one can see two large tanks, a tomb, dargah of Haz. Umar and also Vinchu Kaata.

Returning from Lohgad to Gomukh khind and taking a right takes us to the base of Visapur fort and one can climb up the fort following the waterway on left, which goes dry after monsoon. Visapur is a very huge fort and similar to Lohgad has good fortification and water fecility. One can see a big canon (may be 10ft long) on the fort with impression of 'A1780' on it. May be a British canon used in those days to capture Lohgad. The canon also directs the way down to Bhaje village. While coming down, we see a hanuman temple and rock cut caves nearby. I reached Bhaje village by 7PM and from there till Malvali by 7:45PM (after a tea break) to catch the local train back towards Pune.

Views from both these forts are very good and best season would be during monsoon till 15Oct. After mid October, the vegetation goes dry, but still beautiful to watch.

Below are collages of few photos took during this trek....Anil